| Longer Trips around Chiang Mai | |||||||||||||||
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Last update: May 9, 2025 | ||||||
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Longer Trips around Chiang Mai.North
South Pai and Mae Hong Son Passage And Pricing
Si Lanna Park, Wat Ban Den and Sticky waterfall.About 60 km North of Chiang Mai lies the large Mae Ngat lake (Mae Ngad reservoir), which is part of Si Lanna National Park. Si Lanna or Sri Lanna Park is not very spectacular, most visitors just go for boat trips on Mae Ngat lake. The headquarters is next to Mae Ngat dam, but you can ignore it and go straight to the lake. Overnighting on a houseboat is about 500 to 1000 baht. One can do a forest walk in the National Park along the lakeside of about 2 kilometer; the entrance fee is 100 Baht for foreigners. In the same direction as the Mae Ngat dam, and not too far from it, is the Bua Tong waterfall, the "sticky waterfall" made of calcium, which is quite popular among yong backpackers. Buatong is the place where you can climb the waterfall; there is a walk down to the bottom of the first cascade, and then one can climb up the waterfall. There are fixed ropes to help climbing up the fall, which is only a low volume of water. This is not risk-free; there are some steep areas and it is a few stories high. Maybe something for teenagers, but certainly not safe for children. And in the same area is Wat Ban Den; a relatively unknown temple in the small Inthakin village. Wat Ban Den is one of Chiang Mai’s most remarkable and surprising temples. The complex contains a large number of structures including an ordination hall, a viharn, a chedi (stupa), etcetera. All buildings seem to be double the size of normal temple buildings, which gives it a strange effect. A few large mythical Naga serpents guard the temple on each side of the stairs, and all over the temple grounds are white Singha lion figures.
As you probably guessed from the Naga serpent photo; the Wat Ban Den temple is relatively new. It was completely renovated in 1988 by the abbot Kruba Tuaengg, who aimed to establish a Buddhist wat with spectacular effects, so one has to be prepared for a bit of special "Disney effects". Wat Ban Den is open 8am – 5pm everyday. No admission fee. Elephant and Temple loop (170 km).
Start by heading north on the busy Highway 107; just a couple of kilometers from Chiang Mai, you'll find a few gas stations. Instead of staying on the highway, it's best to pass Mae Rim village and take the quieter 3009 local road. After passing a few traffic lights and the turnoff to Samoeng (Highway 1096), continue for about 1 kilometer and turn left at the traffic light onto the small 3009 road. Follow the signs for Pai along this rural route until it merges with the main 1095 road. Along the way, you'll pass several temples, some worth a stop. One notable temple is Wat San Pa Yang, featuring 20th-century murals depicting court scenes, palaces, courtesans, and princes. Once on the 1095, turn right, then take the first left at the sign for "Mae Taman Elephant Camp." Continue along this road, passing a few elephant parks, until you reach a small village. Araksa Tea Garden is a nice stop, it is part of a large tea plantation. The Araksa Tea Room offers tea and high-end thai food. Once in the village, cross the bridge, turn right onto the 3052, and soon you'll see the entrance to Elephant Nature Park. While there’s no walk-in entry, a small eatery nearby offers a fantastic view of the valley and the elephant sanctuary. Most ethical elephant sanctuaries provide a structured, educational experience that prioritizes the well-being of elephants, while walk-in parks often focus on convenience and tourist entertainment, sometimes at the expense of animal welfare. Ethical sanctuaries require advance reservations, and arrange transport from your hotel to the elephant park.
Nestled in a picturesque valley, Elephant Nature Park (ENP) is Thailand's largest ethical elephant sanctuary. The park is not open to casual visitors, so you can only admire it from a distance. The broad valley, surrounded by mountains through which the Mae Taeng river slowly meanders in a large, lazy curve. On the grassy plain, some animals are grazing. What are the little dots in the landscape? If you are interested, there are elephant parks located everywhere in the Mae Taeng area. Some of these parks can be visited at a moderate entry fee, like Mae Taman (Maetaman) Elephant Camp, Thai Elephant Home, and Mae Taeng (Maetaeng) Elephant Park. These parks have activities, such as elephant shows and riding, which have been subjects of ethical debate regarding animal welfare. Prospective visitors are encouraged to research these parks for themselves. Maetaeng Elephant Park has its own Elephant Clinic, open to all elephants.
The Mae Taeng valley is home to several elephant sanctuaries apart from ENP, which offer programs aimed at promoting the well-being of elephants. Elephant Nature Park was the first to promote ethical elephant tourism, but nowadays there are many more sanctuary parks around Chiang Mai. A few of these are marked on the map. Ran-Tong Elephant Sanctuary: Established in 2009, Ran-Tong Elephant Sanctuary focuses on rescuing and rehabilitating abused and domestic elephants. Since its inception, the sanctuary has rescued over 40 elephants, providing them with a safe environment to recover and thrive. Baanchang Elephant Sanctuary is a family-run eco-park committed to providing a stress-free environment for elephants. With over 30 years of experience caring for elephants, the sanctuary transitioned from using elephants in the logging industry to focusing on conservation and education. Kanta Elephant Sanctuary serves as a retirement home for elephants previously employed in the tourism and logging industries. The sanctuary offers visitors the opportunity to interact with rescued elephants, promoting ethical experiences without the use of riding. Activities include feeding, walking with the elephants, and observing them as they roam freely, socialize, and bathe in fresh water lagoons.
On the last part of the loop go back to highway 107, and turn east on the 1001 road. Here are Wat Ban Den and the sticky waterfall. Wat Ban Den is north of the 1001 road in Inthakin village, but it is not signposted in English so you'll need a GPS map to find it. On the local road north is Phu Forest Cafe and restaurant, with a setting in a garden and a great panoramic view of the valley and hills. And some artsy running horses in the garden in front of the Phusanfah Resort.
The sticky waterfall is signposted and easy to find. After a long drive, take the 1001 road south back to Chiang Mai. This route is mostly on flat ground, except in the Mae Taeng valley where there are some hills around. You'll have seen lots of beautiful nature, plenty of elephants, and maybe the sticky waterfall. The total distance is 170 km, but you can do part of the loop in much less time.
Further North: Chiang Dao wildlife sanctuary.Just north of Chiang Mai, and closer than Doi Inthanon, lies the uniquely shaped Doi Chiang Dao (Chiang Dao mountain), Thailand’s third-highest mountain. Renowned among bird watchers and trekkers, Chiang Dao is a wildlife sanctuary rather than a national park. Despite its natural beauty, it remains off the typical tourist radar, making it a hidden gem. Visitors can marvel at the stunning mountain views, explore the extensive Chiang Dao Cave system, and visit the nearby temples. Only a five-minute drive from the caves is Wat Tham Pha Plong, a serene temple perched on the side of the mountain. Accessible via 510 steps, this picturesque spot offers a tranquil experience with very few tourists. In 2021, UNESCO designated the Chiang Dao Wildlife Sanctuary as the Doi Chiang Dao Biosphere Reserve. However, this recognition has resulted in stricter access to the summit, making trekking to the top complicated. At present, hiking or trekking to the summit is only permitted with a guide, and visits are regulated by strict controls. A guide must book in advance, at least one day before at the park office, which is in a different location than the park entrance.
Chiang Dao CaveLocated at the base of the mountain, Chiang Dao Cave is famous for its impressive limestone formations, deep tunnels, and caverns. Open daily, it is recommended to explore the cave with a local guide for the best experience. Getting ThereChiang Dao is approximately 70 kilometers north of Chiang Mai, with a drive time of just over an hour. The route, Highway 107, is straight and busy until you approach Chiang Dao. Once closer, the scenery transforms as you follow a more winding road alongside a small river which borders Si Lanna National Park. To reach the cave, stay on Highway 107 past the turnoff for Chiang Dao town, and take the left turn marked by English signs onto the Giant Trees road leading to the cave. The cave lies directly at the base of the majestic Doi Luang Chiang Dao Mountain.
Entrance FeesAccess to the Chiang Dao Wildlife Sanctuary and mountain area requires a fee of 200 baht for foreign visitors. This fee is separate from the Chiang Dao Cave entrance fee. You’ll only pay the wildlife sanctuary fee if you are entering the wildlife park area and hiking up the mountain. Suggested Itinerary
Note that the 1001 road is a good alternative to the 107 highway; the distance is about the same.
The SOUTH: Doi Inthanon.Doi Suthep and Doi Inthanon are by far the most popular day-tours - most tourists have it on their To-do list. Why? Because Doi Suthep is a prominent mountain right next to Chiang Mai town; and because Doi Inthanon is the highest mountain of Thailand. If you want to avoid the crowds then try to avoid these trips up the mountain on weekends; especially on Sundays. A quick look on google earth will show you that Doi Inthanon looks very much like a hill, albeit a very large hill. The advantage of it being shaped like a hill is that it was possible to create a read to the top. But one has to ask: is a mountaintop which one can reach just by driving to the top a real mountain, or just a very large hill? By comparison, Chiang Dao, a mountain to the north of Chiang Mai, is a real mountain and looks like it. Doi Chiang Dao is the only true mountain range in Thailand; even if it is "only" the 3rd highest one at 2175 meters high, it is a mountain that has real peaks and cliffs. Doi Inthanon is convenient because has a road going to the top, but Chiang Dao is too steep for a road. On the other hand Chiang Dao is just an hour driving away, but Inthanon takes 2 hours to get to the top. Neighboring countries like India or Burma will consider Inthanon just an average mountain because it isn't very high. Doi Inthanon is lower than the Western Ghats in India; we might call it a foothill of the Himalayas. Inthanon is nice because you see three things at once: the highest mountain in Thailand, a few nature trails and some waterfalls. And a lot of highways, for the most part. Before you get to the winding mountain road, there will be a lot of straight busy highways; and then a busy parking place at the top - you are not the only one who want to visit Doi Inthanon. Highest car park in Thailand. (review quote) After following a queue of fume belching traffic for about an hour you'll arrive at the top of Doi Inthanon to fight for a parking space; then be puzzled as to why you made all that effort to get here. No view to speak of, just an unkempt car park with a bit of grass and trees and at the end a huge military radar and communication building. Getting there: The top of Doi Inthanon is about 110 kilometers away; which will take about two hours driving, one way. It is a long drive on mostly busy highways until you get close to Doi Inthanon. Doi Inthanon entry fee: adult: 300 baht, children: 100 baht. Kew Mae Pan hiking trail per group: 200 baht, the Royal Pagodas costs another 40 baht. Weather: Booking a trip to Doi Inthanon is always possible the day before - but check the weather and visibility first. If you can hardly see Doi Suthep from the old town, you won't see much but clouds on the top of Doi Inthanon. During the monsoon season some trails will be muddy or closed.
MAE HONG SON.All the Mae Hong Son loop options.The Mae Hong Son loop is a twisty road through the mountains of Northern Thailand. It is famous in motorcycle circles, but there are also many people who do the route by car. For example a lot of backpackers and tourists take the frequent minivans from Chiang Mai and rent a bicycle or scooter in Pai. The legendary Mae Hong Son loop starts from Chiang Mai on a very twisty road to Pai, then a scenic route to Mae Hong Son, down to Mae Sariang and back to Chiang Mai. This 600-kilometer journey usually takes about 4 days on a motorbike. Pai, a busy backpacker town with a very nice night market is the first stop. The route offers stunning karst landscapes on the way to Mae Hong Son, a tranquil mountain town that sees relatively few tourists, preserving its authentic tribal influence. If one takes the "Short loop", there are nice landscapes and a stop in the village of Mae Chaem which is a center of textile handweaving. To return to Chiang Mai, the road traverses Doi Inthanon mountain. The next three itineraries also show some shortcuts; one can do the full loop, or a shorter and perhaps better version.
The Journey Begins: 762 curves to Pai.In Thailand, traffic flows on the left-hand side of the road, just like in the UK, but a lot faster and less disciplined. Here, the law of the road is might makes right, and the larger your vehicle, the better. While speed limits exist, there is no speed enforcement, allowing you to go as fast as you like. Many young backpackers travel by scooter on their first trip to Pai; which may not be the best choice for a novice rider. The twisty mountain road to Pai is a 130 km long drive; and famous for its 762 turns. It's an intimidating mountain road, even for experienced motorcyclists, let alone beginners. There is a lot of traffic; for example, the many minibuses travelling to Pai which usually drive fast. In short: it is not safe and not for beginners!
Bear in mind that the road to Pai has garnered notoriety for all the wrong reasons. It's infamous for its sharp bends, potholes, and is classified as one of Thailand's most treacherous roads. A few years ago, in 2016, the road was widened in some places so you can now easily overtake that slow driver; who is trying to go uphill on an underpowered scooter with his girlfriend on the back. However, most of the curves on this road still lack proper road banking or superelevation. Negotiating these bends requires foresight, precision and experience. Unfortunately for some beginners, experience is what you get - just after you need it. Perhaps taking the hourly minibus to Pai is is a better idea, these are bookable at any travel agent in town, at a modest fee. The Aya minibus will pick you up from your hotel. Prem Pracha/Prempracha also has minibus connections from Chiang Mai to Pai. Further on to Mae Hong Son there are only yellow Songthaews. More on motorcycle and scooter rental and requirements here: motorrents.htm
Where to stay in Pai.Pai, once a quaint mountain village, underwent a dramatic change when it became a popular destination for backpackers. It morphed into a cool hippie oasis with a great atmosphere and lively night bazaar. Nowadays, Pai attracts not only young backpackers but also a diverse mix of older visitors. The backpackers who come to Pai are known for their amiable nature, and unlike other places, they refrain from hosting all-night raves due to the chilly weather. In one word, Pai is cool. Welcome to Hippy heaven ;-)
Within downtown Pai, the rectangle on the map, there may be some noise due to a few nightclubs that operate until midnight. Bar street has especially noisy bars. For those seeking tranquility, staying in a bungalow located outside the central area of Pai can be an excellent option. In Pai town itself, there is a wide range of budget accommodations ranging from 600 to 1500 baht. Additionally, there are numerous mid-range hotels and some expensive resorts, primarily located near the Pai River, and a few to the west of town. During the low season, finding accommodation is generally hassle-free, but around Christmas and New Year it can become more challenging. Pai offers a variety of resorts and bungalow parks in all directions; here are a few options within short walk:
One can also rent a scooter or bike and head north on the road to Mae Hong Son. Up there are some very nice isolated resorts, but it will take about half an hour on a bicycle to reach them. Going south, you can walk for 10 minutes and find a few more bungalow resorts. A last hot tip: In daytime the temperature can be around 30 degree Celcius, but Pai is a mountain village with a mountain climate. During the high season (december and january) the nighttime temperate may drop to 15 degree Celcius or less. Around this time of the year an aircon is not needed.
Hot springs in Pai.There are two natural hot springs near Pai: Sai Nagm and Tha Pai hot springs.
Down south, close to Huai Nam Dang park, there are also a few resorts with mineral water. For example, Pai Hotsprings Spa Resort has a circular hot bath in the resort garden for just 100 baht. Mueang Rae Pai Geyser Hot Springs is located about 20 kilometers south of Pai, a scenic 40-minute ride south on Route 1095; turning off at the sign Ban Wat Chan and following route 1265. This hot spring is just a pond next to road 1265, and not very scenic. Entry is free. To be continued ..........
Free passage through the parks.Most of the national parks are free to drive though, though they sometimes charge an entry fee between 100 to 300 baht at the area around the visitor center. To avoid these fees, one can visit the park instead of the visitors' center. In the majority of parks, between 95% and 100% of the area is accessible without charge. The exception is Doi Inthanon, which has a checkpoint at the foot of the mountain. If you are on the Mae Hong Son loop, and only want to a quick drive through Doi Inthanon park from Chiang Mai to Mae Chaem, they will wave you through. Chae Son national park charges an entry fee at the area around the visitors center; which is 200 Baht for foreigners. This visitor area is a very small area of the park, where the hot springs are. There is also a hiking trail to the Chae Son Waterfall; a 6-level waterfall. There are eateries, snack stands, and picknick opportunities. Once again, it's worth emphasizing that all of these routes through national parks are free; with the exception of Doi Inthanon. If you want visit the top of Doi Inthanon mountain, you will have to pay the admission fees.
Dual pricing in Thailand.Dual pricing systems are usually intended to charge foreign tourists more than locals. Thailand is not the only asian country using dual pricing. For instance, Indian nationals can enter the Taj Mahal for 40 Rupees, whereas foreigners have to pay a slightly higher fee of 1000 Rupees. In Thailand many museums and all national parks use a dual-pricing policy; where foreigners pay 5 times the price that locals pay. The Thai entry fees are shown in Thai script, and thus not obvious to the western tourist. The visitors center of a park is usually a nature trail, a hot spring or a waterfall. To avoid the high foreigner entry fee and get a genuine experience of the national park, consider bypassing the visitors center. But what exactly are you paying these entry fees for? Is it a splendid stroll along a nature trail? While Doi Inthanon has some good nature trails, other, less well-known parks often have inconsistent or even absent signage, with trail maintenance being entirely neglected. As a result, one may get lost or confused. It's a good idea to bring an offline GPS map with you or turn back if you feel disoriented to avoid getting completely lost.
The entry fee system is rather complicated, as shown above. A potential improvement to the dual pricing system in Thailand could involve the introduction of Unified Pricing. Implement a single, unified entry fee for all visitors, regardless of their nationality. This would eliminate any perception of discrimination, and certainly lower entry fees would greatly enhance the number of foreign tourist visiting the National Parks. Thereby the net result could be the promotion of National Parks and tourism, at the same cost.
National park links on Wikipedia.Entry fees are only charged for the visitors center and camping area of the park. Mae Takhrai, Ob Khan, Khun Chae and Si Lanna park are all free.
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